Secret Trips: Newport Off-Season
By John Coulbourn
It’s a clear, crisp, sunny day, and the sun is sparkling off Newport Harbor. It’s a perfect, secret time of year on Aquidneck Island. You’ll actually find available parking spots, restaurants without long lines, and navigable passage down Thames Street.
This small town with the big reputation is downright accessible once the summer throngs have ebbed. Newport, Rhode Island, is an easy drive for us from the Boston area and a more desirable option this time of year. Of course, its summer benefits are well noted, but then it’s almost bursting at the seams with visitors.
Newport’s wonderful intimacy is exposed in fall and winter. You read about Newport’s huge collection of charming Colonial homes, but those tiny backstreets are best avoided during the summer crush. The same might be said for the winding coastal beauty of Ocean Avenue or stately Bellevue, for that matter.
The thing is, Newport has a whole array of terrific features that are best sampled in the off-season. It’s a romantic getaway or a fabulous family weekend with great restaurants, lots of unique shops, and year-round attractions.
The storied mansions are always a stirring combination of architecture, art, and lavish styling. Supported by The Preservation Society of Newport County, they offer one part scholarly history and two parts guilty pleasure as you peek into the lifestyles of the opulently rich and famous. Some of the best are available for tours in the off-season. But sure to check out the Preservation Society’s Web site for operating schedules and background info (www.newportmansions.org).
Before Christmas, beginning in late November, The Breakers, The Elms, and Marble House will be decorated in Yuletide splendor. With elaborate wreaths and garlands, vast dining tables set with silver and crystal, and live music, it’s the perfect way to get into the holiday spirit. Check out the Preservation Society’s Web site for specific info on tickets and times (www.newportmansions.org).
For holiday activities, you’ll find a variety of venues to consider. First, Newport is home to many quaint specialty stores, all generally within walking distance. Bellevue Avenue and Upper and Lower Thames streets, along with Bannister and Bowen's wharves, are home to a large number of shops. You’ll typically find some great off-season bargains, and these unique shops always offer new ideas. Take, for example, The Armory on Thames Street. It’s a collection of antique shops located in a former … armory. While you’re there, you’ll find dozens of shops and galleries, offering jewelry, paintings, clothing, nautical items, chocolates, and other handcrafted products.
Second, as far as art goes, Newport has been a colony for artists since the 18th century. There are galleries from Bellevue to Bannister’s Wharf. The Newport Gallery Organization, a group of 25 members, is a handy resource, offering original works from local artists as well as artisans from around the world. Through December, Newport Gallery Nights are held the second Thursday of each month, from 5 until 8 in the evening at the various galleries. The Gallery Organization’s map is also handy if you happen to be taking a daytime art walk through Newport’s working studios and traditional gallery-style venues.
One other big holiday treat to mention: The Polar Express, when the Newport Dinner Train transforms itself into the Chris Van Allsburg holiday classic. The train departs from Newport Station; advance reservations are required. But this popular family activity sells out quickly each year, so visit the Web site www.newportdinnertrain.com for more info.
While Newport can be an easy way to deal with the rigors of the holidays, it’s also just a great escape. Where else would you find the Tennis Hall of Fame (www.tennisfame.com)? The International Tennis Hall of Fame and Museum welcomes visitors from 9:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. daily, except Thanksgiving and Christmas Day.
For overnights, Newport boasts a few big hotels, such as the venerable Hotel Viking (www.hotelviking.com) or the Hyatt Regency on Goat’s Island. On the edge of the rocky coast is the Castle Hill Inn (www.castlehillinn.com), which can be a breathtaking, romantic escape on calm, bright days or even, particularly to some, during winter’s worst. There’s also an abundance of B&Bs. Newport’s Colonial architecture and narrow streets lend themselves to a number of wonderfully intimate, cozy spots — with rooms that are often much less expensive, and considerably more available, than during the busy summer months. Just off Thames Street, for example, The Mill Street Inn (www.millstreetinn.com) offers guest suites in a charming historic building.
And for a truly remarkable getaway (in fact, a secret spot we usually don’t reveal), consider being a lighthouse keeper for a night. Rose Island Lighthouse is located on an 18-acre island in the middle of Narragansett Bay, just minutes from Newport. Built in 1869, it’s a working lighthouse available for overnights; a visit here has been characterized as an “unforgettable eco-exploration.” (Check out: www.roseisland.org)
The Newport restaurant scene is wonderfully varied, too, with all sorts of dining experiences best savored during that wonderfully relaxing off-season. The seafood is still fresh, right off the dock. Dining options range from upscale venues such as The Mooring (www.mooringrestaurant.com) and 22 Bowen’s (http://www.22bowens.com) to fun, lively spots such as Sardella’s (www.sardellas.com) for Italian food and The Red Parrot for everything else (www.redparrotrestaurant.com). There’s also the local Coast Extreme Brewing Company if you’re into crafted beer and hearty food (www.newportstorm.com). It’s fun to sample appetizers and a drink at one spot and have dinner at another — just another little benefit you’ll notice when the summer crowds are gone.
Suffice it to say you’ll be pleasantly surprised by all of Newport’s wonderful off-season charms. It’s not as though this seaside spot is a secret, by any means. It’s just that it really is such a delightfully intimate experience when the big crowds are gone.
John Coulbourn is a big fan of quahogs, the PawSox, and Narragansett Bay. He lives just north of Boston, where he’s a partner with Ipswich River Media.